Reprise: Napa Valley's Reckoning
Before We Turn the Page
Many thanks to the regular readers of this Substack, which has seen a big jump in subscribers. Let’s take a moment to welcome new readers, recap where we’ve been, and take a look at what comes next.
If you’re new here — especially if you arrived through Napa Valley: A False Signal or the Afterword: What Should I Do With My Winery? — one thing you should know: those two pieces were written assuming you'd already seen the earlier Napa essays. Here's a quick recap.
For years, what was happening to Napa Valley’s wine economy circulated mostly as anecdote, whispered observation, and isolated personal experience — a winery owner’s private worry, a quiet rumor about inventory, a sense that something had shifted without anyone able to say what, or by how much. The Napa Valley series tried to provide a disciplined framework and hard facts: a clearer view of the current state of the valley, where more wineries, more capacity, and more luxury claims have outrun what the market can sustain, and where the correction now underway is structural, not cyclical.
Napa Valley’s Reckoning, republished below, makes that case in full. If you would like to read the whole series, the rest of it is gathered in The Napa Valley Essays: A Compendium.
But Napa Valley is just one subject among several. My primary purpose in writing these essays is to bring new analytic and economic insights to topics where I have relevant firsthand experience. We have explored crime, obesity, and beef. And, in June, we moved to music: The Slide Rule on the trombone’s strange history, and How Do They Know? on how a jazz ensemble creates order with no one in charge.
Going forward, expect the same varied range. That doesn’t mean the Napa series is finished — future essays will turn to vineyards and grape growers, and to the broader reckoning still underway in the valley.
After a pause for July, we begin in August with a three-part series on the economics of jazz, followed by a two-part series on incentives in baseball. Napa-related topics will continue throughout. Later, an essay on competitive sailing will pick up the same thread How Do They Know? started.
Thank you for reading Tell the Truth and Do the Right Thing.
Napa Valley’s Reckoning follows below, exactly as first published in May.
Napa Valley’s Reckoning
The Question Is No Longer Whether the Market Will Correct—but How Much Must Change
Napa Valley is not approaching a turning point. It is already at one.
The old language of “softness,” “headwinds,” “a difficult cycle,” and “temporary inventory pressure” no longer describes what is happening. Those phrases imply that the market is merely passing through a rough patch before returning to its prior shape. That is not the case.
Napa is now at a reckoning.
The direction is now clear. The magnitude is still unfolding.
The valley has created more wineries than consumers can distinguish, more tasting capacity than visitors can use, more high-priced Cabernet than actual occasions can absorb, and more luxury claims than the market can credibly reward. And too much Napa Cabernet was shaped for the critic’s glass rather than the dinner table.
This reckoning is not an adjustment on the margin. It is a structural correction in a region that mistook capital inflow, high scores, rising land values, expanding hospitality, and new winery formation for proof of durable demand.
For a long time, Napa could confuse participation with strength. More owners wanted in. More wineries were approved. More tasting rooms opened. More luxury bottles crossed the 94- and 95-point threshold. More wines moved into producer warehouses, consumer cellars, and private collections, supported by allocation systems that made accumulation look like demand.
But at the end of the day, wine has to be consumed.
Not merely admired. Not merely scored. Not merely purchased once and stored. Not merely poured in two-ounce tasting-room increments. Consumed—in meaningful volume, at sustainable prices, by actual people, in actual moments of life.
That is the test Napa can no longer avoid.
The Numbers No Longer Support the Story
The valley did not expand fivefold. The number of claims on it did.
Napa now has more than 500 wineries operating on essentially the same finite land base that once supported a far smaller and more legible field. More than 100 wineries have been approved in the past decade alone, and the number of new labels and brands created is larger still.
Extend the horizon over two decades, and the cumulative expansion more than doubles. This is not the result of a few marginal entrants. It is the accumulated consequence of two decades in which Napa added a very large number of new claimants to the same finite luxury space.
The pressure is not concentrated only in a weak fringe. More than 400 Napa Valley Vintners members produce fewer than 10,000 cases annually. Within that segment, the share of profitable wineries in the broader premium wine sector declined sharply—from roughly 76 percent in 2021 to approximately 50 percent in 2024. Applied to Napa’s small-winery segment, that implies that on the order of 200 small Napa wineries may now be operating at or near break-even or loss.
The more demanding test is not one-year profitability. It is structural viability: the ability to sustain operations over time while servicing debt, maintaining vineyards and facilities, funding customer acquisition, and earning a reasonable return on capital. By that standard, the number at risk is smaller—but still large.
A careful estimate suggests that 25 to 40 percent of the small-winery segment, roughly 100 to 170 wineries, are under significant economic pressure and unlikely to meet a standard of long-term viability without material change.
That is not a forecast of future failure. It is a statement about current condition.
The widely discussed softening in overall wine demand is not the central problem. It may matter at the margin, but even a meaningful rebound would not resolve the structural imbalance in Napa Valley.
The demand that exists—both for wine and for tastings—has been divided across too many producers, too many experiences, and too many similar claims. The result is not simply weaker demand, but thinner demand at the level that matters: each winery. Many producers are losing share faster than the market is shrinking.
And even when a bottle is purchased, it does not necessarily translate into consumption. Wines are stored, compared, or deferred, extending the gap between purchase and use and further weakening the link between demand and sustainability.
This is large enough to matter—large enough that Napa cannot pretend the solution will come from a little better hospitality, a little better storytelling, or another seminar on wine club conversion. Large enough that a meaningful reset could require something like 35 to 40 exits, reversions, mergers, or major restructurings a year for the next three years.
That is not gentle attrition.
That is a structural reset.
The important point is not that every one of these wineries will disappear. Many will not. Some will be subsidized. Some will shrink. Some will become private estates with a wine label attached. Some will remain beautiful but economically marginal.
The point is that the current structure cannot be justified by market demand. A region does not need 500 wineries all claiming luxury status if the consumer can meaningfully distinguish only a fraction of them, visit only a fraction of them, and consume only a fraction of what they produce.
The Sameness Is Measurable
For years, Napa’s crowded luxury tier was softened by the power of the appellation’s halo. If the bottle said Napa Valley, carried a high score, and came wrapped in the language of estate, family, terroir, craft, and scarcity, that was often enough.
It is not enough now.
A quantitative review of the marketing language of 512 Napa wineries found that 71 percent scored 40 or below on the Napa Identity Index, meaning they clustered near a prototypical Napa description. Thirty-six percent—184 wineries—showed “Very Low” differentiation. Another 35 percent—180 wineries—showed merely “Low” differentiation. Fewer than 10 percent, just 41 wineries, qualified as “Highly” or “Very Highly” differentiated.
That is a difficult finding to dismiss.
It means the sea of sameness is not just a rhetorical complaint. It is a measurable market condition.
The prototypical story is now familiar: family-owned estate, rooted in Napa history, sustainably farmed vineyards, small-lot Cabernet, minimal intervention, unique terroir, elegant and powerful wines, intimate by-appointment hospitality. Again, much of this is true. That is precisely the problem. The stories are often sincere, the wines often good, the properties often beautiful, and the owners often serious.
But when hundreds of wineries tell essentially the same story, the story stops helping the consumer choose.
Napa has produced too many look-alike winners. Many new entrants drew heavily on Napa’s accumulated brand equity without adding enough distinctiveness to replenish it.
In any luxury market, distinction is the product. If the consumer cannot remember, rank, or explain the difference, the market eventually stops rewarding all the claims equally.
The Score System Has Stopped Sorting
For years, the score system helped Napa manage this complexity. A high score allowed lesser-known wineries to borrow authority. It simplified choice. It gave consumers a reason to believe.
But when high scores become abundant, they stop solving the sorting problem.
If 220 Napa wineries advised by fifteen wine consultants earned roughly 1,150 scores of 94 points or higher over five years, what exactly is the score telling the consumer? It still communicates technical quality. It may still help sell wine at the margin. But it no longer explains why one expensive Napa Cabernet matters more than another expensive Napa Cabernet made in a similar style, praised by the same critics, and shaped by overlapping professional networks.
A high score once cut through confusion.
Now, in too many cases, it confirms the confusion.
The Consultant Model Reflects the Same Pattern
The same pattern appears in the consultant model. For years, a small group of highly regarded consultants helped new and existing wineries achieve technical polish, avoid costly mistakes, and produce wines that could compete successfully in critical tastings. That role was valuable, and the prominence of these consultants reflects real skill.
The incentive did not originate with the consultants. Owners wanted wines that could justify luxury pricing, critics rewarded wines that performed powerfully in tastings, and the market treated high scores as shorthand for legitimacy.
But the market effect is still worth examining. If five consultants are associated with 162 wineries, and if fifteen consultants account for wines from roughly 40 percent of the Vintners’ membership, the question is not whether the consultants are talented. They clearly are. The question is whether so much overlapping expertise can continue to function as a signal of distinction in an already crowded luxury category.
At some point, a credential that once differentiated begins to normalize. The association may still reassure the buyer that the wine is professionally made, but it no longer explains why one expensive Cabernet matters more than another.
That is not an indictment of consultants. It is a consequence of a market that rewarded the same signals too many times. In the next phase, the advantage will not belong simply to wines that score well or carry familiar professional validation.
They will have to be desired.
The Critic’s Glass Is Not the Table
The game shaped the wine.
Too much Napa Cabernet was trained for the critic’s glass rather than the dinner table. It became rich, polished, high-impact, and immediately impressive. That was rational in the world that rewarded it. But the critic’s glass is not how wine is ultimately consumed.
A wine can impress in thirty seconds and exhaust in thirty minutes.
The issue is not that Napa forgot how to make good wine. The issue is that too many wines were optimized for evaluation rather than the table. High alcohol, dense extraction, softened acidity, and heavy oak may perform brilliantly in a tasting lineup but narrow the range of real meals where the bottle belongs.
The modern table has moved on. It is lighter, more varied, more vegetable-driven, more global, and less reliably built around a marbled steak. Napa Cabernet still owns that steakhouse moment. But it cannot build an entire economic structure for an appellation on the assumption that every bottle will find a ribeye, a birthday, an anniversary, or a collector willing to wait ten years.
Special occasions are too few.
The Visitor Economy Is Also Overbuilt
The same structural imbalance appears in hospitality.
Napa County appears to have annual tasting capacity of roughly 15.85 million to 18.1 million visits, while realistic demand is closer to 10.5 million tasting events. That gap is too large to explain away as seasonality, weather, or a temporary post-pandemic hangover. It is structural.
The capacity is spread across three tiers: roughly 9.5 million permitted annual visits at estate wineries, approximately 5.6 million visits of capacity in urban tasting rooms, and an estimated 750,000 to 3 million visits of additional “shadow” capacity. Combined estate and shadow capacity appears to be operating at roughly 50 to 60 percent utilization, while many smaller wineries are far lower.
That average hides a brutal split. Ten top estate wineries command more than 27 percent of the county’s permitted capacity. Iconic destinations can operate at very high utilization, while many small wineries operate at only 20 to 40 percent utilization, with tasting rooms that may be nearly empty on off-season weekdays.
Meanwhile, more than 100 urban tasting rooms have created a parallel system with a different logic. Some operate at utilization rates as high as 75 percent. They succeed because they fit modern visitor behavior: less driving, less ceremony, more flexibility, lower time cost, easier comparison, and the ability to fold wine into a broader day rather than surrender the day to wine.
The scarce resource for the modern Napa visitor is not wine.
It is time.
Estate wineries responded to competition by premiumizing the visit: higher fees, longer appointments, seated tastings, food pairings, cave experiences, more choreography. For one winery, that can make sense. If guests are harder to attract, make each guest worth more.
But when everyone does it, the system weakens. A visitor who once could fit three or four tastings into a day now fits one or two. The experience becomes richer at the unit level but smaller at the system level.
The old question was: are people coming to Napa?
The new question is harsher: why would they come to you?
Consumption Is the Final Test
The decisive fact is not about permits, capacity, scores, consultants, or tasting rooms. It is about whether the wine is actually consumed.
Eighty-five percent of all wine sold in the United States is priced at $15 or less. The subset of consumers who regularly spend more than $200 per bottle is extraordinarily small—perhaps one percent of the wine-drinking population, or 400,000 to 500,000 people nationwide. Spread across Napa Valley, that works out to roughly a thousand potential customers per winery.
Even those consumers have limits. A serious collector might consume 30 to 36 cases per year, while needing to hold 700 to 1,200 bottles to maintain a cellar with wines continuously entering their drinking windows. The arithmetic becomes unforgiving. The category does not merely need buyers. It needs repeat occasions that turn purchases into consumption.
That distinction matters.
A bottle purchased is not the same as a bottle consumed. Producer inventory and collector inventory can rise at the same time. Wine can move from a winery warehouse into a private cellar and still not enter the pattern of use that sustains a category over time. The first sale may flatter demand. The unopened bottle may conceal the weakness of underlying demand.
For a while, that distinction did not matter much. Collectors were willing to buy, store, compare, and wait. The culture of reverence supported the model. But a category built around reverence eventually confronts the problem that reverence slows consumption. The more a bottle is treated as precious, the fewer occasions seem worthy of opening it.
For much of the last two decades, what appeared as demand was partly accumulation. Collectors were not just buying to drink. They were buying to build cellars—to fill space that did not yet feel constrained. As long as those cellars had room, purchases could outpace consumption without immediate consequence.
That condition is now changing. Many of those cellars are full, or close to it. The generation that built them is aging, and the next generation is less inclined to accumulate at the same scale. As a result, a portion of what once registered as demand has begun to disappear—not because interest has collapsed, but because the capacity to store more wine has.
That is why “save it for something special” is no longer an adequate strategy. Special occasions are too few. Ceremonial consumption cannot carry the volume.
Napa does not need to make luxury casual, but it does need to make luxury usable. The bottle must fit enough meals, enough moments, and enough reasons to be opened again.
Wine only matters when it enters life.
That is the consumption test Napa can no longer avoid.
Inventory Makes the Truth Visible
Markets can tolerate illusions for a long time when capital is patient, owners are wealthy, and the asset is beautiful.
Inventory is less forgiving.
By early 2026, California bulk wine inventories had reached roughly 25 million gallons—more than 10 million cases—including a significant backlog of unsold prior vintages competing directly with new production. Napa is only a portion of that total, but it participates in the same system of pricing, substitution, channel pressure, and buyer behavior.
Inventory turns ambiguity into fact. It sits in barrel, bottle, warehouse, allocation lists, and private cellars, appearing to offer time. Time for demand to recover. Time for the next release to perform better. Time for visitors to return. Time for the market to recognize quality.
Then the next vintage arrives.
That is the brutal feature of wine. Production decisions made years earlier do not wait for demand to recover. Vineyards produce. Barrels fill. Bottles arrive. Labels must be placed. Space must be found. Lines of credit have limits. The calendar does not negotiate.
At some point, the question changes. It is no longer whether the wine can be sold. It is whether it can be sold without damaging everything else the winery is trying to preserve.
That is when correction becomes unavoidable.
The Correction Will Reprice the Valley
The result will not be a tidy shakeout at the fringe. It will be a reordering of assets, acreage, ownership, membership, and meaning.
Napa will have fewer economically active wineries. Some brands will go quiet. Some will reduce production. Some will sell fruit rather than bottle it. Some will shift from winery to private estate. Some will be repurposed for hospitality, retreats, residences, or other lower-traffic uses where allowed. Some will remain physically beautiful but economically peripheral.
Vineyard values will come under pressure, especially for marginal or less clearly differentiated sites. The best vineyards will retain value because real scarcity still matters. But the broader assumption that almost any Napa vineyard can be converted into high-priced bottled wine will weaken.
Planted acreage is likely to decline at the margin. Replanting decisions will become more selective. Some land will move out of production. Some will be preserved. Some may shift toward conservation, open space, private use, or lower-intensity agriculture.
The varietal mix will broaden. Cabernet will remain the anchor, but it cannot carry every occasion, every price point, every consumer, and every owner’s economic ambition. Napa will need more wines that fit more moments of consumption: more serious Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, more lighter reds, more Mediterranean varieties, more wines with fresher profiles and broader food compatibility, more bottles designed for the table rather than the trophy shelf.
The institutional consequences will be real. Fewer economically active wineries will eventually mean fewer members of the Napa Valley Vintners and Napa Valley Grapegrowers. Lower vineyard values, fewer viable winery projects, and reduced transaction values will affect the tax base. A slower development cycle may reduce pressure on roads, water, permitting, agricultural land, and the social fabric of the valley. But it will also force local institutions to adjust to a less expansive economic reality.
Where the Pressure Will Fall
A reordering is not a soft landing for everyone.
The pressure will not fall randomly. It will concentrate among wineries, owners, growers, lenders, consultants, service providers, and public institutions that continue to treat the current moment as a cycle rather than a structural break.
The first exposed group will be wineries that deny the correction and wait.
They will carry too much inventory for too long, protect price points the market no longer accepts, and continue releasing wines into channels that are already congested. They will explain weak sell-through as temporary, attribute lower conversion to weather or traffic or staffing, and hope that the next vintage, the next score, the next event, or the next club push will restore the old trajectory.
For some, delay will feel rational. Discounting threatens brand integrity. Cutting production feels like retreat. Selling fruit feels like failure. Reducing ambition feels humiliating. But delay has a cost. Inventory ages. Cash tightens. Older vintages compete with current releases. Private offers become more frequent. Quiet discounting teaches the market to wait. The owner’s patience begins to substitute for consumer demand.
By the time the decision is unavoidable, the range of options will be narrower and the asset will be worth less.
The second exposed group will be wineries whose entire proposition depends on being one more excellent version of a familiar Napa story.
These are not bad wineries. Many are technically serious. Many have good vineyards, expensive facilities, polished hospitality, and respectable scores. But they have no durable answer to the consumer’s simplest question: why this wine?
In a market with too many similar claims, “good” is not enough. “Estate grown” is not enough. “Small lot” is not enough. “Family owned” is not enough. “Ninety-five points” is not enough. “Made by a famous consultant” is not enough. Those signals once helped a winery enter the luxury conversation. Now they often confirm that it is trapped inside the same conversation as everyone else.
A third exposed group will be owners who bought into Napa for reasons the market cannot reward.
Some entered the valley with sincerity, capital, and ambition but without a sufficiently differentiated commercial reason to exist. The winery may have served as a lifestyle platform, a family legacy project, a restoration fantasy, a social stage, or a proof of taste. None of those motives is dishonorable. Many of these owners have enriched the valley through philanthropy, stewardship, architecture, and civic engagement.
But the market does not compensate an owner for sincerity.
It does not care what the land cost, what the cave cost, what the consultant cost, or what the owner hoped the winery would mean. It cares whether enough people want the wine often enough, at the price required, to sustain the business.
For owners whose personal attachment to the project exceeds the market’s attachment to the wine, the correction will be especially difficult.
A fourth exposed group will be growers and vineyard owners tied to the weakest part of the bottled-wine economy.
Not all vineyards are equally exposed. The best sites will retain value because real scarcity still matters. But growers whose fruit depends on marginal luxury brands will feel the pressure. If fewer wineries can justify high-priced Cabernet programs, fewer wineries will bid aggressively for fruit. Contracts will be renegotiated. Some blocks will be passed over. Replanting decisions will become more cautious. Marginal vineyards will have to justify themselves in a market that no longer assumes every Napa acre can be transformed into a $200 bottle.
But the exposure is not limited to marginal vineyards or weak sites.
Over the last two decades, many long-established Napa farming families moved further into the winery business, believing—reasonably at the time—that bottling under their own label offered a more durable economic future than remaining solely growers. For many, that strategy was rational and often successful for a long period of time. But the correction now threatens both the economics of bottling and some of the assumptions that originally justified the transition.
Advisors whose business models depend on the continuation of the old system will also need to adapt.
The old system supported a large ecosystem of consultants, designers, marketers, architects, hospitality trainers, publicists, compliance specialists, and brand advisors whose default assumption was that every winery should keep going and improve. That assumption is now less reliable. Some wineries do not need a sharper story. They need a smaller footprint, a lower price, a different wine, a merger, a sale, or an exit.
The advisors who continue to sell optimization into a structurally oversupplied market may lose credibility. The more valuable advisors will be those who help owners face the full range of choices, including repositioning, shrinking, combining, selling, or changing the wine itself.
Wine consultants will face a related but different challenge. Their skill will still matter. But the market may reward a wider range of styles, voices, and interpretations than the score-driven model encouraged. In that environment, technical excellence will remain necessary, but it will no longer be sufficient to justify luxury sameness.
Public institutions and service businesses will also need to adapt. Many local expectations were built around a permanently expanding wine economy. Those assumptions no longer apply.
If winery values fall, vineyard values soften, planted acreage declines, new projects slow, and more properties shift into private or noncommercial use, the effects will not stop at cellar doors. Membership organizations will have fewer active participants. Local governments may face a weaker tax base than prior assumptions implied. Service businesses built around perpetual expansion will feel the slowdown.
The community will have to adapt to a wine economy that is still valuable, but less expansive, less forgiving, and less able to support every expectation built around it.
That is why denial is not neutral.
The longer the valley’s institutions, owners, and advisors treat this as merely a cycle, the more value will be destroyed unnecessarily. A faster recognition of reality would not prevent losses, but it would change their character. It would allow more owners to sell before distress, more growers to make rational replanting decisions, more lenders to manage exposure, more new entrants to buy and reposition rather than build, and more institutions to prepare for a smaller but healthier industry.
The market is already sorting the better-positioned from the exposed.
The only question is whether the valley will respond in ways that make that sorting more intelligent—or allow it to become brutal.
Information Would Preserve Options
One reason the correction has been delayed is that Napa still lacks a shared factual understanding of its own market. Too many participants see their own weak conversion, inventory accumulation, slower club growth, or tasting-room softness as an isolated problem. It is not isolated. It is systemic.
The valley needs better aggregated information: real inventory data, clearer sell-through patterns, more honest tasting-room utilization, better understanding of urban versus estate demand, more transparency about discounting and channel leakage. Anecdotal reports and industry surveys are not sufficient. On these dimensions, both the Vintners and the Grapegrowers have the opportunity to help.
A shared understanding of supply and demand will not prevent the correction. But it could make it less wasteful. It would allow owners to sell before distress, growers to make rational replanting decisions, lenders to manage exposure, institutions to prepare, and new entrants to buy and reposition assets rather than add capacity.
Denial destroys value. Information preserves options.
The Opportunity Is Real
This correction will also create opportunity.
The next generation of Napa entrants, if there is one, should begin from a different premise. The path forward is not to repeat the last Napa model with new capital and higher hopes. It is to acquire existing assets, reset expectations, reposition the wines, and bring them back to the table.
That is the real opportunity.
Napa does not need more capacity. It needs better use of the capacity already built. A buyer who pays less for land, facility, or brand does not have to force every bottle into the same luxury logic. Lower basis creates room for wines that can be priced more intelligently, consumed more frequently, and built for the table rather than the trophy shelf.
The point is not to recreate the last Napa model at a discount. It is to use lower asset costs to make different economic and stylistic choices.
The question for the next owner should not be: how do I enter the Napa luxury club?
It should be: what would people actually want to drink, buy again, and serve with dinner?
That is where the market opportunity sits.
They will not need to persuade the world that Napa matters. Napa already matters. They will need to persuade consumers that this bottle matters now—at this meal, on this night, at this price.
That is a different assignment.
The Hard Truth
Napa Valley is not losing its greatness. It is losing the ability to extend that greatness indiscriminately to every participant who invokes it.
That is a painful but necessary distinction.
The best Napa wines will endure. The best estates will endure. The most compelling vineyards, strongest brands, clearest experiences, and most useful wines will continue to matter. But the valley as a whole has overextended the meaning of luxury. It has allowed too many wineries to price, speak, build, and behave as if the market had already granted them a position it had not granted.
Now the market is withdrawing that presumption.
This is not the end of Napa Valley.
It is the end of a particular illusion: that prestige, once established for the Napa Valley appellation, could be endlessly subdivided without losing force.
Napa’s next chapter will belong to those who understand that luxury is not created by price, architecture, scores, famous consultants, or scarcity language alone. It is created when real distinction meets real desire often enough to sustain a market.
The bottle has to be opened.
That is where the reckoning becomes real.
* * *
Ted Hall is a vintner and rancher at Long Meadow Ranch in Napa Valley. A winemaker for more than 50 years, he was named the 2017 Grower of the Year by the Napa Valley Grapegrowers. A former chairman of Robert Mondavi Corp., he is also a Senior Partner Emeritus at McKinsey & Company and a founder of the McKinsey Global Institute. He writes about economics, incentives, and how complex systems shape real-world outcomes across agriculture, food, wine, and consumer markets.
The experiences behind these essays are collected in a memoir of the same name — 125 stories from a life that has included McKinsey, Napa Valley, a Pacific crossing, and the Village Vanguard.
@Ted Hall this is written with such precision! 🎯🎯🎯Sobering to say the least.
Thanks Ted for another well written dose of reality. Though focused on Napa it certainly applies over the Mayacamas here in Sonoma. With the clarity of hindsight it is amazing that many believed "the party would never end". Moving to Dry Creek Valley in the early 1980's there were half dozen wineries in the Valley. When I took over the little red barn on Lytton Springs Rd and began making Peterson Wines in 1987 there were (about) 16 wineries. Currently there are over 70 wineries competing for attention and customers. I go back to hearing Leon Adams (journalist co-founder of the California Wine Institute) giving a talk where he said that if we want a true wine and food culture in the US we need to produce and sell decent bottles of wine that don't cost much more than a gallon of milk. He also said that the wine market could be compared to a pyramid. That if you wanted more room at the top you first need to increase the size of the base. We see what happened to that idea over the past 40 years.